This is copied from their current e-mail newsletter:

"Determine if you will turn the unit on. It is always a good idea to know what the temperature was the night before the inspection. Also note what the current temperature is at the inspection. The current temperature ideally will have been 60-65 degrees or warmer for the last 12-24 hours. When examining the outdoor unit, note if the disconnect is turned off, indicating the system is shut down. The unit power should be on for roughly 24 hours before the inspection to prevent damage to the compressor."

Many times at bank REO props the breakers are off. Or the power was just turned on by elec co the day b4.

PLS: Do NOT turn this into a debate on whether to turn breakers on or off!:mrgreen:

This is directly copied from the current AHIT newsletter:

Home inspectors need to remember that they are not there to cite code violations, but rather, are there to make recommendations to the client if additional safety can be added or upgraded. For example if inspecting a bathroom in a house that was built in 1987, or for that fact 2007, and the receptacle is checked and is properly grounded but does not have GFCI protection, it should NOT be written up as a safety hazard, even though the code for GFCI protection in a bathroom went into effect in 1975. Instead, this should be expressed verbally and should be written in the report as, “for additional safety, recommend GFCI protected receptacles in the bathroom.” It is okay to recommend GFCI protected receptacles in locations that typically require them but do not currently have them.


I anticipate this post may cause a few differences of opinion...:mrgreen:

Anyone have any idea if there is a code requirement or specification of how thick the "stucco" finish is supposed to be on a block wall. Keep in mind that none of the builders around here actually do stucco anymore. They put a coat of cement on the wall and then texture it. In fact most plans do not even say stucco any longer, they call it a cementitious finish.

That said, a customer pointed out that on his home under construction, after the "stucco" was applied, you can still see the mortar joints in the block. Is there a standard that would compel the builder to make the finished coat on the block wall thicker?

These photos are after the home was painted and you can still see the mortar joints.
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Anyone have tools, instrumentation or do ground testing.
A tool or instrumentation to use.
1: Panel & system ground.
2: Mechanical. On any component.
3: Bonding.
Thanks in advance.

Duhhh ummm, what ya think is CAUSING the basement walls to bow inward, crack,leak? WHERE is the cause(s)???

LOOK, lolOlOlOooLLL, they are filling in the cracks on the INSIDE!!!! lolol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R90I6QGuOxM
Wall is bowing in.....EXTERIOR cracks in the wall man!!!
THAT'S where the water is getting in, through the exterior cracks so....
filling in ANY visible-interior cracks does N O T H I N G!!!!!!!

That doesn't repair,waterproof the exterior cracks!!! ](*,)

And umm duh, none of these BOZO's are/have relieved,lessened ANY exterior pressure,weight off the walls!!!!!!! ](*,)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trnCnoTjrkE
same incompetent shtt in Ohio, thats O...HIGH....O for these terds.

Same dumb shtt in New York
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iS5xnaejk2c

NONE of them (as usual) have relieved/lessened ANY exterior weight,pressure that most often CAUSES basement wall cracks,leaks and duh walls to bow in!@#$#@!@!@!

Expanding and contracting clay soil and-or, underground tree roots and-or
concrete slabs and-or porch footing etc cause many of the dang cracks,leaks in basement walls and cause the wall to bow in and these butt-brains either don't care,don't give a shtt about THAT (the cause) or don't KNOW...incompetent!! And again, the exterior cracks are STILL........O P E N!

Some blocks and mortar joints will also.....deteriorate!!!!!!
Like this.....
http://picasaweb.google.com/10104903...65133328086770

Same wall is BOWED IN...
http://picasaweb.google.com/10104903...65069188493442

And sometimes 1 or more inside-blocks will deteriorate
http://picasaweb.google.com/10104903...04553850232530

Interior system was installed, some BEAMS too.....over $15,000 spent
http://picasaweb.google.com/10104903...aterproofing41
Did the companies (2 different interior system companies), did THEY correctly and honestly I--G---dang----DENTIFY the actual problems/causes? NO, thats friggin N...O.

Did either company fix,repair the actual,existing problems? NO, thats friggin N...O.

And, it STILL leaks!!!!!! More mold, more efflorescence, some cracks widening BE----g----dang---CUZ, they incompetently,fraudulently (for self gain) did NOT remove,relieve,lessen the CAUSES of the cracks and leaks and mold etc and instead installed the one stooooooooooooOOOoooopid thing they do!!!

These interior basement system companies have NOT 'waterproofed' those basements, BUlll-friggin-shtt man!

They have NOT stopped the water from WHERE it's FIRST-entering and ummm duh, STILL entering!@#@!@#@!@! How are ya going to stop-prevent mold,efflorescence if you don't stop the water! What about RADON GAS? Leaving a GAP at,along bottom of wall-floor allows MORE radon gas to enter you foolzz!

And again, they have not removed,relieved,lessened ANY exterior weight,pressure that caused the walls to bow in, crack, leak.

Hey, if and when let's say...a porch footing has CAUSED aka IS CAUSING a basement wall to bow in, has caused cracks in that bowed wall, which then g dammmit has caused water to enter basement then....YOU need to remove etc the friggin porch footing etc IF you want the problems fixed CORRECTLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Fc the COST, thing is....have the real problems,causes been HONESTLY and competently diagnosed? And so, if and when a porch footing IS part or all of the problem, the cause of cracks etc then THAT is what needs to be addressed!!! NOT installing a stupid interior system and not filling the cracks you see inside!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!
If the homeowner is given ALL the facts,the causes of why the wall is bowing in etc etc then if THEY decide to hire and install a dumb azz inside system then THAT is on them and LOTS of luck selling that fcd up house/basement...exactly like the one ya see (picas 41)

Yet all i hear and read about is SUPPOSEDLY how honest and how experienced THESE kinds of companies are. This is complete BULLLLshttttttttttttttt! How honest and experienced are THEY when the are doing w t f they're in the VIDEOS!!!!! W O W fc g WOW, peeps your getting lied to, misled, misinformed etc by these terds, YES YOU are!!!


Please rise and sing a long to My Old Kentucky Home
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PRgWol5BrY
...the sun shines bright on my old Kentucky home, tis summer and the basement is leaky and inside system companies r gay.....

You can't buy this for $900.
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...-backyard.html

http://www.professionalequipment.com...d-thermometer/

http://www.fluke.com/fluke/usen/Ther...5051&trck=vt02

Applications:
Electrical: Inspect wiring and overloaded circuits, electrical panels, breakers and switchgears. Detect heating of fuses, insulators, connectors, switches and splices.
HVAC/R: Check temperature in ducts, furnace exteriors, steam traps and heat exchanges. Take suction line temps for super heat. Check refrigeration equipment, freezers and AC condenser temps for blockages.
Industrial/Mechanical Maintenance: Inspect rotating motors and other machinery. Test pumps, bearings, windings, belts and drive shafts.
Preventative maintenance
Automotive: Troubleshoot engines, brakes and heating/cooling systems. Check wiring, bearings, exhaust system, hydraulics, compressor and seals.
General Building Maintenance: Inspect HVAC maintenance, refrigeration equipment, AC condensers, ducts, furnace exteriors, steam traps, heat exchangers, motors, pumps and belts.
Home Inspection: Inspect heat ducts, circuit breaker boxes, heat exchangers, furnace exteriors and AC units. Check for water leaks around tubs and shower pans.

Sleep well tonight Boston

Any of you who have been to O'Hare airport in Chicago will appeciate this. After the recent rains, O'Hare flooded. Average of 1 1/2' of water across the entire field.

Gee, they have been working of the Deep Tunnel project since I was in High School. Don't you just love government make-work projects?
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I did an inspection today for the house that has radiant flooring in the bathroom. It is done differently in various parts of the floor - one has short tubing, the other long. But in front of the shower it looks like a rug. I never seen radiant flooring in the shape of a rug. Is it real? :D
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We'll be holding commercial inspection courses around the world in the coming months.
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He does pushups with Kelsea on his back when he isn't on the forums. :)
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Just put all the stuff you want to save in this thread

Hey guys I need advice. I am getting started in home inspection and am trying to decide on what software to use and what device to put it on. I would like to hear what others are useing as there are so many options.

Hey folks, I'm troubleshooting a 200amp CH panel and have founbd that everyother breaker on both busses is reading 0 on my multimeter. This is occuring on both single pole and two pole breakers -so for instance, the HW heater is only recieving 120v from half of the two pole breaker. Has anyone seen this condition?

thanks!
Scott

Thought some might be able to get a better understanding on the subject.

http://www.necplus.org/Features/Page...rty.aspx?sso=0

Of two commodes in the same house with the same date of MFG Nov 7 but different years one 1987 and one 2000.

I should have bought a loto ticket yesterday:(

BTW I have a addiction to checking commode dates of MFG the oldest I have found here was 1937 and still in use:D