What's the opinion of "Off center installed garage door openers on double width doors"? There are many articles on-line regarding this, and I believe that if the door were perfectly balanced this would be okay. From an inspectors point of view, what should our opinions be?

Stuart Tick

TALLAHASSEE — Florida Gov. Rick Scott — and other top state officials — quickly distanced themselves last month from a controversial deal approved by Citizens Property Insurance Corp. to shift thousands of homeowner policies to a start-up insurance company.

http://www.gainesville.com/article/2...insurance-deal

I am having trouble finding work.. Can anyone give me some advise on getting more inspections. Is marketing to realtors the only way? Thank you ..Ralph

Concrete tile roof - 15 years old - see the sag over the center of the garage? Header over the door drops about 1 1/2" at middle - thinking this is the cause ...from inside, trusses are intact.

Tiles are laid on battens only. There is no decking or underlayment. Not sure if this is correct.

See photo of the "coated cardboard" panels underneath the tiles. Many of these are cupping at the the seam overlap. Heat maybe? Or possibly moisture/humidity or leakage?

Any thoughts?
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I ran across this yesterday and while it is not very common here I think i know what it is. For some reason I keep questioning myself and need some insight.
Home is 6 years old on public sewer system and has a walk out basement with one bathroom in the basement.
Am I looking at a sewage pump in basement pumping to a grinder pump outside and then it goes into the public sewer? The alarm system in the other pics is in case of system failure?

Attachment 66161
Attached Files Alarm.pdf (205.7 KB)

Jim Kirk correctly disobeyed his commander's orders, refused to murder Kahn, and instead captured him alive to bring him back for trial.

This seemed as appropriate a place as any to post this inquiry- apologies if thats not the case

Let me preface this by saying, this is my first online/distance education, so my main "educational" point of reference, is my brick-and-mortar college education 10 years ago. Each class had a course code listed visibly on the curriculum. ES101, ES102 etc.

I am currently just a few days into the student member program, and took a step back to glance further ahead at the many courses readily available here.
I acknowledge the fact so many topics and issues are inter-related, so structuring the exact path of education is likely more than challenging.
As a PA resident, the absence of a licensing board eliminates the state-specific requirements. So my "curriculum" only lists 12 required courses, followed by dozens of "optional" courses. (which I intend to take full advantage of)

My first question: Are these required courses chronological? As in, I should begin with the first listed, and work my way down the list.

I ask, because I am curious if it is counterproductive to create a more "personalized" course of training.
For example, IMO, going into the learning stage of this, I would suspect it to be in my benefit, to review topics in the same progression as per say an actual inspection would occur.
..arrive on site, begin exterior inspection, head up to the roof, etc..

However, the "Roof Inspection" course, is 3 removed from the last required course in my curriculum.

Another, perhaps better example- I'm currently a portion of the way into "Attic, Insulation, Ventilation, and Interior".
I considered breaking away from this course momentarily, to take the "Inspection of Crawlspaces" course. Assuming this smaller course, would benefit in my progression of the larger, previously started "Attic.." course.

I suppose the bottom line, do any courses have prerequisites for others, so on and so forth. Having a background in general contracting, I know many of my strong areas, and the areas I'll need to place extra focus on. But I want to ensure I don't make this more difficult than it has be, or make the progression less natural.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions and feedback - I greatly appreciate it!

I inspected this 1957 house this week and the sidewalls were framed with vertical 2x8's staggered and nailed together. In the photo you can see where they covered the band joist with lap siding then it is capped with a sill plate and the 2x8's are set on top of the sill. The 2x8's extend clear to the roof line on the gable end which you can only see in the attic. They covered the gable on the outside with lap siding. I have also attached a picture of the inside of the unfinished garage and you can see it is a single wall construction. Has anyone seen this type of construction before and know what the proper name for it is? Board and Batten didn't seem to fit. The interior is dry walled like a conventional home.
The attic construction was site built trusses placed 8' apart with 2x4's 16"oc spanning the trusses at the ceiling.
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Does anyone have experience with some of the new low cost Mini Split Heat Pump now available for under $1,000 for a 9,000 Btu unit?

Building a low energy house and only need a small unit but prices are all over the place from $6-700 up to $2.000.Hard to find good reviews on these units. Any in put is appreciated.

Hi there,
Does anyone have experience with some of the new low cost Mini Split Heat Pump now available for under $1,000 for a 9,000 Btu unit?
Building a low energy house and only need a small unit but prices are all over the place from $6-700 up to $2.000.
Hard to find good reviews on these units. Any in put is appreciated.

Hi there,
Does anyone have experience with some of the new low cost Mini Split Heat Pump now available for under $1,000 for a 9,000 Btu unit?
Building a low energy house and only need a small unit but prices are all over the place from $6-700 up to $2.000.
Hard to find good reviews on these units. Any in put is appreciated.

It will burn the hair off your arm when you get a delayed oven burner light. Shook everything that was not bolted down. Wished Nick had this one and I had a feather we would both be tickled;-)
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I had to use my new spider man shoes to get on this roof. Hey Gary inspect this sucker from the ground:D;-)
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Inspected house built in 2000 today. The service equipment panel inside didn't have a OCPD on the Siemens 200 amp panel. The main service entry cable was connected to a 200 amp breaker outside which was about 20 ft to panel inside (more than 5 ft. rule) SHOULD the equipment panel inside have a main breaker. Answer YES correct? Hope I'm wording this correctly.
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A 1996 home with attached garage and OSB on the walls and ceiling. Was this installation proper for that time period? I know what to recommend but just wanted to learn a little history.

The only blower assist assemblies that I'm familiar with are the in-line air switch activated type. This was on the end of a dryer duct that was about 39' in length. I have no idea if this thing is adequate or not. Does anybody know anything about this type of device? Sound off please!

Bill Mullen
http://www.carsondunlop.com/2013/03/bluewater-property-consultants-inc-forms-new-strategic-partnership-with-carson-dunlop/
This person was at one time listed as a NACHI member ,a OAHI member ,a CAHPI member , a PHPIC Member and a CMI he seems to be no longer listed with any of these Groups.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Remember Whistler

http://www.nachi.org/forum/f48/lets-not-forget-whistler-4935/

Bill has a big announcement coming soon
http://www.nachi.org/forum/showpost....&postcount=103

Personal Lines Policies:
Citizens-Endorsed Inspection Companies for
Wind Mitigation Inspections

IE #010-13 – June 13, 2013

As a service to our applicants and policyholders, Citizens now endorses the following three highly qualified inspection companies to provide wind mitigation inspections:

Inspection Depot
800.991.9094
schedule@inspectiondepot.com
www.inspectiondepot.com

Mueller Services
800.934.1246
customerservice@mueller-inc.com
www.mueller-inc.com/retail/windMit.pdf

Quality Built
888.637.6322
customerservice@qualitybuilt.com
www.qualitybuilt.com/citizens.php

Property owners applying for coverage with Citizens and existing policyholders who apply for wind mitigation premium discounts must have a wind mitigation inspection performed by a Florida-licensed, authorized inspector. Property owners may select any Florida-licensed and authorized mitigation inspector to perform the inspection.

Consumer Benefits
Citizens-endorsed inspection companies:

Ensure that their inspectors meet the Florida Office of Insurance Regulation minimum licensing standards
Verify that their inspectors have passed criminal background checks
Provide, and require their inspectors to attend, annual industry training courses

When an applicant or policyholder hires a Citizens-endorsed inspection company, the inspection agreement is solely between the property owner and the inspection company. Property owners and agents should contact the inspection company directly for information about:

Inspection fees and payment options
Appointment scheduling
The inspection process
Inspection report delivery options (e.g., U.S. mail, fax, email, etc.)

The applicant or policyholder should give you a copy of the complete inspection report, including photographs, which you will need to upload via the ePAS Electronic Document Submission process.

For additional information, refer to the:

· Policyholders section: Blue Inspections button; select Wind Mitigation Inspections
· Agents section: Blue Inspections button

Selecting a Citizens-endorsed inspector to perform an inspection does not guarantee wind mitigation discounts or that the property will not be re-inspected to verify that wind mitigation discounts were applied correctly.

Hi folks!

I've added a new feature to the Real Estate Agent CE referrals we've been offering in Colorado, Missouri, and Florida. Now, when an agent uses your card and InterNACHI ID to sign up for an account, you'll receive a notification email immediately with the name of the agent and their company. This way you can keep track of which agents are using the cards you give out!

http://www.nachi.org/coagent.htm
http://www.nachi.org/fl-agent.htm
http://www.nachi.org/mo-agent.htm

Tim

This is the last of the lot (that I could fix at any rate) These work well and are in decent condition (some scrapes on the backs naturally). $250 ea. and estimate shipping to be about $10 for the northeastern US, others please ask and I will get you a rate. I accept paypal and EMT or credit card...Thanks!

Moisture meters